Shoes

Posted: Wed Nov 18, 2009 8:14 pm Post subject: Shoes

Kalen, your article on shoes in the RWR is fantastic!!! Would it be possible to share that information here on the board? I understand if the rights, etc. don't make it so. Thanks!
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Medieval & Regency Writer
keirasoleore.blogspot.com

Viscountess of the Manor Joined: 20 Sep 2006 Posts: 1100

I'm glad you liked it. I can post something here too.
_________________
-Kalen
w/a Isobel Carr
Ripe for Pleasure, May 2011
Book 1: The League of Second Sons
www.isobelcarr.com

Viscountess of the Manor Joined: 20 Sep 2006 Posts: 1100

WOMEN’S SHOES

When clothing underwent a transformation, so did shoes. Gone are the high-heeled shoes of the 18th century, with their latchets and bejeweled buckles. From the 1790s on the trend was flat (if there is a heel at all, it’s VERY low), and that stays true until the mid-Victorian era.

Progression:

1790

1795

1810

1820

_________________
-Kalen
w/a Isobel Carr
Ripe for Pleasure, May 2011
Book 1: The League of Second Sons
www.isobelcarr.com

Viscountess of the Manor Joined: 20 Sep 2006 Posts: 1100

SLIPPERS or PUMPS

This is the most common shoe of our era. It’s flat, ballet-shoe like, and the shoes are made on a “straight last” (i.e. not made in a left and right version). Some rather plain examples exist, but examples with fancy pleated frills, decorative appliqués, paint, rosettes on the toes, etc. are all relatively easy to find. I’ve even seen them with spangles (sequins). Some have a ribbon (again, much like a modern ballet slipper) that starts about mid-foot (in the middle of the arch) then wraps around the ankle and ties. Some have a drawstring like a modern ballet slipper. They were made of everything under the sun: kid (fine leather, like the gloves), silk, canvas, leather, jean (a heavy twilled cotton), etc. Sometimes they were made to match a specific gown (such as for a court presentation). You’ll notice that the toes get less pointed as we approach the teens, and by the 30s square toes have taken over.

Women wore these for everything. Casual days at home, long walks, riding, balls, etc.

Yellow kidskin, c. 1800.

Three examples from the Bata Shoe Museum, c. 1805

Pink kidskin, c. 1800-1820

Two examples, one plain, one fancy, c. 1810-1812

Women’s everyday shoe, leather, c. 1810-1820 (a very serviceable—and rare—example).

Silk pumps, c. 1820

Printed shoe, c. 1830s

Silk with straw and horsehair braids and ribbon embellishments, c. 1830

Pump, c. 1839

_________________
-Kalen
w/a Isobel Carr
Ripe for Pleasure, May 2011
Book 1: The League of Second Sons
www.isobelcarr.com

Viscountess of the Manor Joined: 20 Sep 2006 Posts: 1100

HALF-BOOTS

The only slightly more serviceable shoe of the day was the half-boot. These are ankle boots, and very like a modern jazz boot. Like pumps they could be made of almost anything, though jean, kid, and leather predominate. This is most likely the “boot” your heroine is wearing while riding. I have seen an image of a woman in the 1790s in what looked like low Hessians, but as the image was a satirical comment about how masculine she was because she hunted, I can’t really consider it documentation (she also has 5 o’clock shadow!).

These were commonly worn for driving, walking, etc. Anything where a lady might want a little bit more protection than a slipper could provide. They could lace up the front or up the side (on the inside of the boot).

Three half-boots. From the top down, c. 1810-1820; c. 1825-1830; c. 1840

Half-boot, c. 1820

Girl’s half-boot, c. 1830-1850

Half-boot, c. 1835

_________________
-Kalen
w/a Isobel Carr
Ripe for Pleasure, May 2011
Book 1: The League of Second Sons
www.isobelcarr.com

Viscountess of the Manor Joined: 20 Sep 2006 Posts: 1100

PATTENS

Ok, these aren’t shoes, but they were worn over the shoe. In our era they usually comprised of a wooden platform sitting atop two metal rings, with a leather sandal or mule for the shod foot to rest in (think about trying to balance on this while walking across wet cobbles!). But simple platforms and “geta-type” clogs existed, too (not surprising considering the era’s obsession with all things Asian). The whole point of the patten is to help keep the feet dry, and/or to keep the shoes clean.

Drawing of an 18th century patten with a metal ring (Kyoto Costume Institute has a similar extant example, but I couldn’t find a good image to scan)

Extant 19th century patten with the same metal ring

Above: Leather patten, c. 1825. Below: Leather Carriage Clog, c. 1830 (to keep your shoes clean while traveling).

Supposedly a man’s patten, c. 1812 (but it’s shown with what looks like a woman’s half boot to me)

_________________
-Kalen
w/a Isobel Carr
Ripe for Pleasure, May 2011
Book 1: The League of Second Sons
www.isobelcarr.com

Viscountess of the Manor Joined: 20 Sep 2006 Posts: 1100

MEN’S SHOES

PUMPS

For all formal occasions, including dinner, balls, court, the theater, etc. men wore pumps. In our era I’ve never seen an example (illustrated or extant) that wasn’t black. They’re pretty much identical to the women’s pumps, but without any of the frills and furbelows. Certainly, though, if you were creating a dandy character his pumps could be of any colour you like.

Man in pumps, c. 1803

Unisex “brogan” c. 1800-1830 (another rare example of what is likely a lower-class shoe)

Man in pumps, c. 1813

Men’s leather pumps, c. 1830

_________________
-Kalen
w/a Isobel Carr
Ripe for Pleasure, May 2011
Book 1: The League of Second Sons
www.isobelcarr.com

Viscountess of the Manor Joined: 20 Sep 2006 Posts: 1100

BOOTS

Boots were the sneaker of the Regency era, if you know what I mean. Previously they had been worn only for riding, hunting, etc. Now, they’re part of proper morning (informal) attire. They come in many forms for men, There was the top boot (also called the English, John Bull, Jockey, or tall boot), Wellingtons*, Hessians (also called the Austrian or Hess boot). Some reach the knee (cavalry boots might even have a flare about the knee to help defend the leg), other examples only come up to the calf. Both lengths of boot are worn with pantaloons of varying length, and with breeches, sometimes exposing a good deal of stockinged calf.

*Remember not to use this term before AW becomes the Duke of Wellington (1814).

Brummell in Hessians, c. 1805

Men in pumps and top boots, c. 1809

From the left: low boot, Hessians, top boots, c. 1810

Lord Grantham in Hessians, c. 1816

Inside and outside view of a pair of tall cavalry boots

Boys’ low boots, .c 1850 (identical to those from our era)

Cartoon from 1827.

_________________
-Kalen
w/a Isobel Carr
Ripe for Pleasure, May 2011
Book 1: The League of Second Sons
www.isobelcarr.com

Posted: Mon Nov 23, 2009 1:45 pm Post subject:

BRILLIANT!!! Thanks a whole bunch!
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Medieval & Regency Writer
keirasoleore.blogspot.com

Posted: Mon Nov 23, 2009 3:00 pm Post subject:

I'm drooling over the images. Thanks again, Kalen, for sharing your expertise, and pictures, with us.
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