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Fig 1

Miser purse knitted in a paisley patterns of dark blue, beige, and pink silk, with faceted steel beads knitted in. Tassels of steel beading. Sliders of faceted steel. 14" long, including tassels. c. 1790.

Click on image for more detail.

MISER PURSES

Miser purses — also called long purses, stocking purses, or ring purses — were popular in England and France from the mid-18th century through the early 20th century. Their fast and easy construction meant that they were made in the thousands, and are therefore easily available to collectors. (If you do decide to collect them them, however, beware that because of their long popularity, it is sometimes difficult to tell if one was made in 1800 or 1900.)

A miser purse has a long, narrow, tubular shape with a slit left open in the middle. The purse was pulled through two metal rings, called sliders. Both rings are slid to one side, coins are inserted through the opening into the other end of the tube, then one of the rings is slid tight against the end to secure the coins inside. Coins would be inserted into both ends in this way. The rings ensure that coins cannot escape through the central slit.

Some scholars believe the design of the purse was a revival of the Medieval practice of carrying one's coins in the toe of a stocking. A similar tube-shaped purse fastened with rings at each end had been popular with men during the 16th century. It is not entirely clear how the nickname "miser purse" came about. One theory is that they were so called because they were made to disgorge a single coin or just a few coins at a time, or because the design ensured that coins were secure and difficult to lose.

The miser purse was carried by both men and women. In the 18th century, men sometimes wore them hidden inside a sleeve, which is another possible source of the name "miser purse." They also thrust them into pockets, as did ladies. Later, when the waistlines of dresses crept back down to the natural waist, miser purses were sometimes worn folded over a lady's belt.

Figure 2, painted in 1774, shows an example of a knitted and beaded miser purse, which must have been a familiar image to 18th century viewers.

Fig 2

Mercury as Cut Purse, by Sir Josuah Reynolds, 1774. Faringdon Collection Trust.

This painting is paired with an another allegorical subject using children: Cupid as Link Boy. In this pair, Reynolds mocked the tradition of children representing classical subjects by placing his children in the streets of London, infused with sexual undertones. Mercury was a messenger as well as the god of commerce and was often depicted with a money bag. Here, he has stolen it.

Click on image to see a larger detail of the purse.

The purse was either knitted, netted, knotted, or crocheted, using silk, cotton, wool, and sometimes metallic thread. They were often beaded. The two ends were usually decorated with beads or tassels or fringe. The earlier purses had two identical ends. Victorian purses often have each end decorated differently, so that one could easily tell which type of coin was in each end of the purse. The purses vary in length from as short as 8 inches to as long as 36 inches. The longer sizes were generally seen later, in the mid-19th century.

Fig 3

Miser purse knitted in dark blue silk with steel beads. Tassels and sliders of faceted steel. 11" long, including tassels. c. 1800.

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One of the reasons for the long popularity of the miser purse was that it was fairly easy to make one, and it became fashionable for young ladies to net or knit purses to give as presents, especially to gentlemen. William Cowper wrote a poem to his cousin Anne Bodham "on receiving from her a network purse made by herself." During the mid-19th century through the early 20th century, ladies' magazines often published instructions and patterns for constructing miser purses. Thomas Gardon, a watch chain and purse maker on St James Street, was one of the many vendors who provided all the necessary materials for purse-making. In the first years of the 19th century, he advertised that "Ladies may be accommodated with great choice of Purse-Twist, Tassels, and Sliders."

Fig 4

Miser purse netted in pink silk with steel beads. Tassels of twisted steel beaded fringe. Sliders of chased sterling. 12" long, including tassels. c. 1815.

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Fig 5

Miser purse crocheted in dark blue silk. Tassels of steel beaded fringe. Slider (one is missing) of steel. 12" long, including tassels. c. 1825.

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Fig 6

Miser purse knitted in red silk with steel beads. Tassels of steel beaded fringe. Sliders of faceted steel. 17" long, including tassels. c. 1820.

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Fig 7

Miser purse crocheted in multi-colored bands of silk with steel beading. Sliders of faceted steel. 15" long, including tassels. c. 1825.

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Fig 8

Tiny miser purse netted in red silk. Tassels of steel beaded fringe. Sliders of faceted steel. 8 " long, including tassels. c. 1800.

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Fig 9

Miser purse netted in dark blue silk with steel beads (many of them now rusted). Sliders of faceted steel. 13" long, including tassels. c. 1820.

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Sources for more information on miser purses:

Genevieve Cummings & Nerylla Taunton, Chatelaines, Antique Collectors Club, 1994.

Vanda Foster, Bags and Purses, Batsford, 1982.

Evelyn Haertig, Antique Combs and Purses, Gallery Graphics Press, 1983.

Evelyn Haertig, More Beautiful Purses, Gallery Graphics Press, 1990.

Evelyn Haertig, Restoring and Collecting Antique Beaded Purses, Gallery Graphics Press, 2000

Clare Wilcox, Bags, V&A Publications, 1999.

Linda Winfield,Leslie Piña, and Constance Korosec, Beads on Bags 1800-2000, Schiffer Publishing, 2000.

 

 

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