Lady’s Monthly Museum, December 1800.
“Morning Dress for Dec. 1800.”
The hat on the left is made of “Union striped velvet.” The Act of Union, joining Great Britain and Ireland into the United Kingdom, was passed on May 5. A lot of patriotic elements turn up in fashions of this year.
On the same figure, the handkerchief tied around her neck could be made of “Burdett,” which was a fabric made of mixed silk and cotton.
The “Opera handkerchief” around her shoulders might also be called a tippet.
On the right figure, the “Spencer mode cloak” is an odd name for what looks to be a pelisse.
Her hat is called a “De Camp” hat, but I have found no reference to that term. It is likely named for a particular modiste or milliner.
Sadly, there is no mention of the muffs. It would be nice to know from what fur or other material they were made.
The extra fashion note mentions “Obi stockings.” I cannot find a reference for that term. But an Obi hat was a particular style named after a character in a popular pantomime, so perhaps a particular style of stocking was also named for him.
The print is described in the magazine as follows:
“1. Bonnet, of green and royal blue Union striped velvet, trimmed with coquelicot ribbon, feather, and handkerchief. Checquered, or Burdett, handkerchief round the neck. Opera handkerchief, trimmed with fur. Round gown of printed muslin.
“2. Robe of pink muslin, with long wrapping sleeves. Black Spencer mode cloak, with sleeves. De Camp hat, lined with scarlet or blue silk, turned up in the front.
“In Morning Dresses, the Obi stocking and slipper, or a dark Mulatto colour, are much worn.”