Ackermann’s Repository of Arts, March 1817.
The embroidery near the bottom of the skirt is shown as quite thick, ie not flat against the fabric but raised rather high, more like crewelwork than simple embroidery.
The fabulous shawl is not mentioned at all in the description, though it is a very striking element of this ensemble.
The print is described in the magazine as follows:
“A blue crape dress over a white satin slip; the dress trimmed round the skirt with a deep blond lace, which is headed with a light and novel trimming, composed of white floss silk and small pearl beads: this trimming is surmounted with a beautiful deep embroidery of lilies surrounded by leaves. The body and sleeves of this dress, as our readers will perceive by our print, are extremely novel. Head-dress, tocque à la Berri; it is a crown of a novel form, tastefully ornamented round the top with lilies to correspond with the trimming of the skirt, and a plume of white feathers, which droop over the face. Ear-rings, necklace, and bracelets, sapphire mixed with pearl. The hair dressed in loose light ringlets on the forehead, and disposed in full curls in the back of the neck. White kid gloves, and white satin slippers.”