Pelisse, December 1809

Journal des Dames et des Modes, Paris, December 15, 1809.

“Chapeau de Velours, Garni en Pluche. Douillette de Lévantine.”

This full-length bright yellow pelisse is made of Levantine, which is a strong twilled silk or sarsnet. It has a standing collar, beneath which we have a glimpse of white lace from either the underdress or a chemisette. It appears to have ties across the bodice, or perhaps they are frogs, it is hard to tell. A belt is tied around the waist. The pelisse has epaulettes (not military-style, but ornamental shoulder pieces) that give structure to the shoulders. The sleeves have long, over-the-hand cuffs, which is typically French, especially in male fashion. The back of the pelisse shows beautiful tailoring, with tucks above the waist fanning out to pleats below.

The hat is made of black velvet trimmed with pluche, which was a rich densely-woven fabric with a pile thicker than velvet. The hat is adorned with a short plume dyed to match the pelisse.

The model wears simple slippers of the same yellow as the pelisse.

If you saw the 2020 film Emma with Anya Taylor-Joy, you will remember that she wore a yellow pelisse that was surely copied from this print.

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