La Belle Assemblée, November 1807.
I’ve always thought the lady on the right is eyeing the other lady, thinking, “What the heck is that thing in her hair?” It’s an odd looking “diadem,” but I suspect it is en tremblante, ie it “trembles’ when she moves, creating sparkle and movement. The tremblante feature was very popular in jewelry of this period.
The print is described in the magazine as follows:
“No. 1.–AN EVENING DRESS. A round train gown of clear muslin, or leno, over white satin, tamboured in a snail pattern, and ornamented at the feet and round the bosom with rosets of gold, or coloured velvet; a full puffed sleeve trimmed with the same, and gathered in the centre of the arm with a topaz stud. Brooch and ear-rings to correspond. Hair confined close behind, and formed in irregular curls on the crown and forehead, with a few negligent ringlets on the left side; a diadem à-la-Chinese, composed of wrought gold and fine pearl; gold elastic, topaz, or pearl necklace. India long shawl, of a flame or orange colour. White satin shoes, and gloves of French kid.
“No. 2–A MORNING, OR WALKING DRESS. A plain round gown of French cambric, a walking length, scolloped at the feet; a plain square bosom, embroidered at the edge. A French coat of purple velvet, with long Spanish sleeve, finished all round with a border composed of shaded chenille. A Yeoman hat of the same material, turned up in front in a triangular form, finished at the extreme edge with a border the same as the coat, and ornamented on the crown with a raised button and rich cord and tassel; a girdle of purple ribband terminated with the same. Purple velvet, or kid shoes, and York tan gloves. With this dress is usually worn an embroidered shirt, with Vandyke ruff, or a chemisette of twill cambric, or small quilted satin, trimmed à-la-militaire.”