La Belle Assemblée, March 1809.
There are so many interesting details in this ensemble: the stomacher, the high pleated collar (what makes it Armenian?), and the “helmet poke bonnet,” which is actually a version of a capote, ie a fabric crown with a stiffened brim.
I wish we could see more of the half-boots, which sound very stylish.
The print is described in the magazine as follows:
“A round gown of French cambric, or fine jaconet muslin, let in with lace beading round the feet. A Roman stomacher front, ornamented with the same, and laced with cord. High Armenian collar in small half plaits, edged with vandyke lace; antique ruff to correspond. Reversed strap back, buttoned from the throat to the termination of the waist. A helmet poke bonnet of light blue, or green velvet, bound with Chinese floss, and ornamented with bands of vandyke lace and beading. Half-boots of fine cloth the color of the bonnet, calashed with yellow Morocco, and laced with black cord. An occasional kerseymere scarf, or shawl, of crimson, with deep gold-coloured shaded border, and fringe.–Gloves pale grey kid, or York tan. This dress is furnished by the Miss Walthers, No. 75, Margaret-street, Cavendish-square.”