British Lady’s Magazine, December 1818.
“Walking Mourning Dress. Invented by Mrs. Smith 15 Old Burlington Street.”
This mourning costume is in honor of the death of Queen Charlotte, consort of King George III, on November 17, 1818. Here is the Lord Chamberlain’s announcement of court mourning dress in the fashion section of this magazine:
The term Undress refers to informal day wear. “Weepers” refers to cuffs on the sleeves, usually made of white muslin, and were so called because one could use them to wipe one’s eyes and nose when weeping. These were worn by both men and women.
The print is described in the magazine as follows:
“WALKING DRESS. Round dress of fine black bombazeens, elegantly trimmed with double black crape. Pelisse of fine black cloth, richly ornamented in a new manner; black braid and cheniele, intermixed with small silk tassels; the body is made to fit the shape with a full back, and sleeves of a moderate width, except at the top, which is very full and trimmed with embroidery to correspond with the skirt. Hat of black silk, lined with white crape, ornamented with black crape trimming, and flower; squirrel muff, black shamoy gloves and shoes.”
Mrs. Smith, the designer of this ensemble, was formerly Miss MacDonald, whose dresses have been seen regularly in this publication as well as in Ackermann’s Repository. She had married William Smith in June 1818.
