Gallery of Fashion, February 1799.
“Afternoon Dresses.”
These dresses are more examples of “Afternoon Dresses” that were much more luxurious than typical Afternoon Dresses, appealing to the very upscale and rich subscribers to this magazine. Their afternoon events must have been very elegant to warrant sable trimming and diamonds.
The red outer garments are called a Mamelouc robe, on the left, and a Mamelouc cloak on the right. There were lots of Mamelouc (variously spelled Mamalouc or Mameluke) garments of all types at this time, as Egyptian-inspired styles flooded all areas of design. This Egyptomania happened after Nelson’s victory at the Battle of the Nile in August 1798, and lasted for almost 10 years.
The lady on the left even has a “Nelson-silver rose” in her hair.
The print is described in the magazine as follows:
“Fig. CCVII. The skirts of the front hair cut short, combed straight, and bound with a gold band; the hind hair turned up in loops, intermixed with a white muslin bandeau, the end of which trimmed with a gold fringe; Nelson-silver rose and esprit feather placed in front. Petticoat of white satin; corset of the same, with long sleeves, tied with gold bracelets above the elbows. Mamelouc robe, the sleeves ornamented with diamond buttons, and the whole trimmed with sable. Small handkerchief within, trimmed with lace. Diamond ear-rings. White gloves and shoes.
“Fig. CCIX. The toupee cut short and combed into feather curls, the upper part of the hind hair turned up in loops, the lower part cropped; The whole ornamented with fur, gold bandeaux and tassels. White muslin gown and petticoat, long sleeves, the whole trimmed with a rich fringe. Small handkerchief within. Fur ruff round the neck. Gold ear-rings. Mamelouc cloak. Fur muff. White gloves and shoes.”
