Ackermann’s Repository of Arts, February 1819.
This late period is usually too fussy for me, but this dress looks very beautiful. The deep flounce must have been gorgeous in person, with the white net roses and white velvet leaves against the net background. A very special dress.
The plumes, either worn alone or with a turban, as here, are getting quite tall again. Not quite the heights of the 1790s, but taller than seen in a while. It is somewhat unusual to see a turban tied on under the chin, but the tie and tassels are made of pearls, so it is something of a fashion statement.
The print is described in the magazine as follows:
“A round dress composed of white satin; the skirt falls in easy folds round the figure; the bottom of it is richly trimmed with a double ruche of white net, over which is a beautiful wreath of white net roses intermixed with large velvet leaves; this is surmounted by a net ruche to correspond with the bottom. The body is cut low round the bust, but so as to shade the bosom in a very decorous manner; it is trimmed with lace tabs. The bottom of the waist is ornamented to correspond. A very short lace sleeve, made full; the body is contrived in a very novel way, so as to form a part of the sleeve. The head-dress is a low white satin toque, ornamented in the front with white roses, which is surmounted by a plume of ostrich feathers; it tied under the chin by a row of pearls, finished by pearl tassels.
“We are indebted to Mrs. Smith, 15, Old Burlington-street, for both these dresses.”