Frog-like fastenings, typically on a pelisse, which are traverse trimmings of cording and tassels in the military style.

The image shown is a detail of a “Parisian Walking Dress” from La Belle Assemblée, February 1818. This magazine always uses the spelling brandenbourgs.


A close-fitting turban-like hat without a brim, worn with both day and evening wear. Became fashionable in late 1816 and beyond.

The print shown is a detail of “Walking Dress” from Ackermann’s Repository of Arts, June 1818: “Head-dress, a pea-green satin toque, ornamented with flowers.”


A cape-like collar, that typically just covers the shoulders. They became more popular beginning in the 1830s, but did appear in the earlier decades of the century.

The print shown is a detail from the French magazine Journal des Dames et des Modes, July 31, 1818.

mob cap

A mob cap, which dated back to the early 18th century, was typically a white indoor cap made of cambric or muslin, with a puffed crown that covered the entire head, trimmed with lace and ribbon. It was most often tied under the chin. During the Regency years, the crown was less puffed and worn closer to the head.

The print shown is a detail of “Morning Dress” from Ackermann’s Repository of Arts, May 1813: “The Brunswick mob cap, composed of net and Brussels lace.”


A round gown (ie a dress where the bodice and skirt are a single piece) that closes in the back.

chip straw

Chip straw, used for bonnets, was not actually made of straw, but of thin pieces of wood. Chip could be plaited or woven just like straw but was sturdier, less flexible. Once formed into a sort of basket in whatever shape was currently fashionable, it could be bleached or colored, then trimmed with as desired.

Silk bonnets sometimes had chip and wire sewn into the seams, creating a framework to give them shape.

The image shown is a detail from “Promenade Dresses,” Fashions of London and Paris, September 1804.


Small round pleats made in lace, tulle, or ribbon lightly sewn down, the edge of the trimming left in open flute-like folds. Used for trimming dresses and bonnets.


A transparent silk gauze.


A garland or wreath of flowers worn on the head.


Fancy embroidery at the ankle of a stocking.