La Belle Assemblée, February 1818.
“Evening Dress.”
It is interesting to see this lovely robe fastened from waist almost to hem with Brandebourgs (always spelled Brandenbourgs in this magazine), a type of frog, which were made of traverse trimmings of cording and tassels. We typically see these fastenings on walking dresses or pelisses in the military style, but it is a lovely element of the robe or over-dress of this evening ensemble.
She wears a toque, a close-fitted hat without a brim, almost completely overshadowed by its ornamental plumes. Toques are often seen with evening wear during the late years of the regency, never replacing turbans in popularity, but equally fashionable.
This print includes the signature of William Hopwood, a London engraver who provided fashion prints for several of the ladies’ magazines at this time.
The print is described in the magazine as follows:
“Hessian robe of white satin, with demi-train, ornamented round the border with an elegant trimming of rose-coloured satin flowers, the sides of the robe finished in a similar manner, and fastened down the front with rose-coloured brandenbourgs, finished by rich tassels. Sleeves very short. Toque of white satin, with a full plume of white ostrich feathers, Necklace of Oriental pearl, fastened in front by a superb knot of the same, with tassels. Armlets of black velvet, clasped with pearl medallions. White satin shoes, and white kid gloves. At evening visits, a Cachmere shawl is thrown over this dress.”
The lengthy section on General Observations on Fashion and Dress ends with this note:
“Pearl ornaments are reckoned the most elegant articles in jewellery; the necklaces of this valuable material, which have lately been invented, are as unique as they are elegant; we have given a specimen of their form in our Print of the English Evening Dress.”
