Gallery of Fashion, November 1799.
“Morning Dresses.”
The black cap and veil on the left figure does not represent mourning. Black was simply a popular color for accessories and trimmings at this time.
The bags carried by each figure are named in the text as indispensables. A footnote at the bottom of the text says: “Indispensables are bags, which the ladies use instead of pockets.” Skirts were still wide enough to accommodate pockets underneath, so it must have been a very novel idea in 1799 to carry female essentials outside the pocket in a bag, and needed explanation. The French term ridicule became more widely used in England within a few years. I have always thought that whoever coined the term ridicule, probably a man, found it ridiculous to carry one’s private items outside the skirt for all the world to see. By the early 1820s the term had become bastardized to reticule.
The print is described in the magazine as follows:
“FIG. CCXXXVII. The front hair round the face in small ringlets, the rest in larger ones, and the hind hair turned up à l’antique. Cap of black crape, trimmed round with a chain, and across the crown with artificial flowers. Vestal veil of a very deep black lace, drawn over the left side, but may also be drawn to cover the face, or left entirely behind. Jacket and petticoat of Mamaluke muslin; short sleeves; the whole trimmed with a blue chain border. Handkerchief within, but drawn out a little before. Gold hoop ear-rings. Light blue gloves and shoes. Indispensable of white sarcenet, ornamented with gold lace, cords, and tassels.
“FIG. CCXXXVIII. The hair exactly as in Fig. CCXXXVII. Clara cap of fine muslin, lined with pink, trimmed across the crown with lace; bows of narrow pink riband placed in front, on the top, and behind; deep white lace round cap turned up on one side; part of the hind hair turned upon the outside of the cap, and the ends combed into ringlets. Round gown of chintz; short sleeves; handkerchief within; small bow of white satin riband in front. Shawl à la Grecque of fine embroidered muslin. Gold oval hoop ear-rings. Jonquil gloves and shoes. Indispensable of cambric, lined with pink, and trimmed with lace and tassels.”
