Lady’s Monthly Museum, October 1805.
“Walking Dress. Full Dress.”
I suspect these mourning dresses are for the Duke of Gloucester, the King’s brother, who had died on August 25, 1805. The Lord Chamberlain had announced that Court Mourning should commence on September 1. There would likely have been no more than 2 weeks of full mourning for a brother of the King, but this October issue of the magazine likely went to print during that time, so full mourning is shown here.
The Full Dress clearly shows full or deep mourning, in unrelieved black. The Walking Dress also looks to represent full mourning … except for that white chip bonnet. It looks so out of place, though it does have a black crepe flower. Even her umbrella (yes, that’s an umbrella in her left hand, with a collapsible handle that can’t be seen) is pure black. So that white bonnet is a puzzle. Perhaps it is meant to represent the transition to the second stage of mourning, or slight mourning.
The Walking Dress is said to be made of black chamberry. I can find no information on such a fabric, so I am guessing it refers to chambray.
The print is described in the magazine as follows:
“WALKING DRESS. White Chip Hat, turned up in Front, ornamented with a black Crape Flower. Dress of Black Chamberry , trimmed with Crape, and Muslin Sleeves. Scarf Cloak of Black Crape. Black Silk Stockings.
“FULL DRESS. Head Dress of Black Muslin and Lace. Dress of Black Sarsenet, trimmed with Crape. Black Leno Shawl, and Silk Stockings and Gloves.”
